Microneedling, or collagen induction therapy, uses fine needles to trigger your skin's own repair response, smoothing acne scarring from within. This guide covers how it works, which scar types respond best, and what to expect during recovery.
What microneedling actually does
Fine needles create thousands of controlled micro-channels that reach the dermis, triggering the body's natural wound-healing response. The skin replaces old, tethered collagen with fresh, organised fibres over several weeks, which is what gradually smooths out indented scarring.
Why a professional device matters
A professional device fires each needle in a straight vertical line, avoiding the tearing that a curved at-home roller can cause. Needle depth is also adjusted zone by zone, lighter around the eyes and firmer on the chin, under clinical sterility standards that a home routine cannot match.
Which scars respond best
Microneedling works best on atrophic scars: indentations left by collagen loss during healing. Rolling scars, with their soft, sloped edges, tend to respond fastest. Boxcar scars need several sessions to build up lost volume, and the narrowest, deepest ice pick scars often respond best when microneedling is combined with a chemical peel. It also helps fade the red or dark marks left after a breakout has healed, by speeding up cell turnover.
Microneedling on darker skin tones
Because it works mechanically instead of with heat, microneedling carries a lower risk of triggering pigment changes than aggressive lasers. Pre-treatment antioxidant serums help stabilise pigment cells, and we monitor your skin's reaction throughout the session to protect melanin-rich skin.
Recovery, week by week
For the first 48 hours, skin looks and feels mildly sunburnt; avoid makeup and active cleansers during this window, and expect some light micro-peeling as normal. Between weeks 4 and 12, new collagen matures and scar edges soften. A course of 3 to 6 sessions, spaced 4 to 6 weeks apart, gives the most significant reduction in scar depth.
Aftercare that protects your results
- Use a hyaluronic acid-based moisturiser to support the skin as it heals.
- Avoid retinols and AHAs for 5 to 7 days while the skin barrier is compromised.
- Wear SPF 50 daily, even when it is overcast, to prevent pigment changes while the skin remodels.
- Book a single maintenance session every 6 to 12 months once your initial course is complete.
Frequently asked questions
Does microneedling hurt?
A topical numbing cream is applied before we begin. Most clients describe the sensation as a light, vibrating prickle, not anything painful.
How many sessions will I need for deep scars?
Most clients need a course of 3 to 6 sessions, spaced 4 to 6 weeks apart, to allow the skin's natural collagen maturation process to complete between appointments.
Is it safe for dark skin tones?
Yes. It is a mechanical treatment, not a heat-based one, which makes it significantly safer for melanin-rich skin than more aggressive laser treatments.
What is the downtime?
Typically 24 to 48 hours. Skin looks flushed immediately after treatment and usually fades to a light pink by the following morning.
Can it be combined with other treatments?
Yes, often with a HydraFacial or a chemical peel, though these are usually booked as separate appointments so the skin is not overwhelmed.
Can I have it if I still have active breakouts?
We do not recommend microneedling over active, inflamed acne, as it can spread bacteria. It is best to wait until breakouts have cleared.